There is a very big difference between just flashing pre-written maps onto a bike and one off custom mapping.
We always start with your bikes original maps as a base and will fine tune custom maps for you from there, never loading maps of any other bike tuned in the past, that often just makes things worse.
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There is so much that can be fine tuned with Ecu tuning, if done properly it takes a lot of time,
bringing with it costs, but also big improvements in throttle response, fuel economy, a smoother ride, reliability and power.
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Instead of only offering one big expensive option for everyone, we have divided tuning up in stages to make it more affordable, to give you only what you want and to give you stages that you can work with over time if needed.
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Stage 1 - Removing Restrictions
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Modern bikes are restricted by manufacturers to meet noise and volume limits removing stock exhaust pipes and catalytic converters is only half the job, there are more restrictions in the Ecu.
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If your fueling has already been tuned with a power commander or bazzaz fueling system,
you are already well on your way to having a well tuned bike.
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The bike does not need to go on to the dyno for this...actually, we don't even need the bike,
we are offering a courier collect and delivery service or you could just bring the ECU in.
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Depending on the bike, we can...
- Reduce Factory Restrictions
(to bring in your power smoother and sooner)
- Reduce your on and off fan temperatures
- Enable hidden features
- Enable a 2 Step Rev Limiter
- Tune for Pops and Bangs
(results vary depending on your bike's set up)
- Reset your rev limiter
- Remove your top speed limiter
- Disable some Fi codes (depending on the bike)
- Reset your steering damper
- Update fuel mapping for South African conditions
(to make the bike run cooler, more responsive and reliable)
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Stage 2 - Fueling
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Fueling is very important.
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When manufacturers tune mass produced bikes, they tune them to work in a wide range of countries or climate regions while also taking emotions and volume testing into account, then most of us change the exhaust system on top of that.
Most bikes run fine in every day use, with an air fuel ratio of between 12 to 1 and 15 to 1, measured in the exhaust - But for best results we need to fine tune that closer to an air / fuel ratio of 13.2 to 1
On most bikes that's fine and the bike will run great.
But if we can correct the fueling to where is runs best, the power delivery will be better, smoother, more responsive, lighter on fuel, less harmful to the motor and more powerful.
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With the motor running at its optimal fueling, we can fine tine spark or ignition timing, brining it in a bit earlier which makes much more power. Manufacturers have to dial it back as their fueling isn't perfect and with the wrong fueling it will damage the motor.
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Back when we used to tune carbs we had 3 settings for air fuel ratio. Bottom end was float height, mid range was needle height and top end was main jets.
Now with electronics we have about 54000 points of tuning, so it's much much more accurate
A bike used to run either rich or lean, but now it runs rich and lean in different places, but often so close you'll hardly notice.
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If the bike runs too lean (not enough fuel), it will run hotter, be more snappy on the throttle and if its way out, it could do damage to your motor not just through excess heat, but could also cause pre- ignition or detonation.
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If it runs rich (too much fuel), it will dump too much fuel, it will feel lazy and sluggish and if its bad it could wash fuel past your rings into your oil and can cause carbon build up in your combustion chamber which can also cause pre-ignition or detonation.
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We can edit Fueling below 0% throttle through internal pressure in the engine, then once the throttle is opened we have from 0 to 100% throttle at 200rpm intervals, giving us more than 3500 tuning points, per cylinder, per gear and per map - in total we can make more than 250 000 changes just in fueling alone.
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Cost on this is...
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Stage 1 + R2000 if done in stages
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Stage 3 - Tuning for power
This gets into the finer workings of tuning often done in conjuction with modifications
We adjust Fueling per gear, Ignition timing, Balance between Upper and Lower injectors, Engine braking, Spark delay time, Cylinder running temperatures to reduce the chance of knock or detonation, Fine tune Ram Air Compensation and try out different fuels.
This is to be done after stage 2 and takes Up to about 10 hours
Cost on this is (Stage 2 + R1000 per hour)
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